Sod Calculator

How many slabs, rolls, or pallets of sod to order, with a waste allowance and the pallet size your farm uses.

Most lawns are bought by the pallet. Small patches and repairs are often bought by the slab or roll.
Your farm or store listing gives it. Or multiply length × width in inches and divide by 144.
Your farm or store listing gives it. Or multiply length × width in inches and divide by 144.
Leave blank for 450, a common pallet of slabs or small rolls (most hold 400-500). Your farm can tell you.
How do you want to measure?
For odd shapes, measure each part as a rectangle, add them up, and subtract the house, driveway, and beds.
About 10% is the usual advice. Use more for curves and tree rings.
Adds a note on which grasses suit your area. It doesn’t change the amount.
Add your prices (optional; we use typical prices otherwise)

Why our numbers are more realistic

Many sod calculators hard-code the pallet size, and some skip or shrink the waste allowance. We checked them against university extension guidance and a sod grower's figures. Here's what changes:

Typical calculatorThis calculatorWhy it matters
Pallet fixed at 450 sq ft You choose pallet, slab or roll and enter the appropriate size Most pallets of slabs and small rolls hold 400 to 500 sq ft, and the farm sets it, so a fixed 450 can leave you a pallet short or one too many. For 4,200 sq ft with 10% waste, that's 10 to 12 slab pallets, depending on pallet size.
Waste of 5%, or none at all 10% by default Edges, curves, and tree rings all mean trimmed pieces, and the small offcuts are too narrow to lay. University guidance says to order about 10% more.
Square feet only Also square yards, and the area you actually get on pallets Sod is often sold by the square yard (divide sq ft by 9), so your quote may not be in square feet.

How this works

Area to order = lawn area × (1 + waste ÷ 100). Pieces = area to order ÷ square feet per piece, rounded up. Pallets = area to order ÷ square feet per pallet, rounded up. Square yards = square feet ÷ 9.

  • Waste: 10% by default, the extra university guidance says to order. Plain rectangles can use a little less; curves, tree rings and beds need more, since university guidance advises against pieces narrower than 9 x 18 in, so more gets cut away.
  • Pieces: the 18 x 24 in slab (3 sq ft) and rolls of 18 in x 6 ft (9 sq ft) and 24 in x 5 ft (10 sq ft) come from university guidance. The 16 x 24 in slab (2.67 sq ft) and 40 x 18 in mini roll (5 sq ft) come from a sod grower's listing, so check them with your farm.
  • Pallet: 450 sq ft (50 sq yd) by default, the typical figure in university guidance.
  • How you buy it: by the pallet you get a pallet count; by the slab or roll you get that count for the size you pick.
  • Your state (optional): adds a note on your turf zone and the grasses that suit it, plus a May-through-July planting window in warm-season states (university guidance). It doesn't change the amount. The zone for each state is our grouping from university sources.
  • Weight: 35-40 lb per square yard (university guidance), about 1,750-2,000 lb for a 450 sq ft pallet.

Before and while you lay it

  • Old grass and weeds: kill or strip them first. University guidance says to control perennial weeds and unwanted grass before sodding, or they come back through the new lawn.
  • Slopes: start at the bottom and work up, with rows across the slope and the seams staggered like bricks. On steep slopes, pin both ends of each piece with sod staples or wooden pegs; staples can stay in to break down.
  • Shade: bermuda needs more sun than any other lawn grass and thins out under trees. St. Augustine handles shade best of the warm-season grasses, with about 4 hours of direct sun; zoysia also does well.

After you lay it

New sod needs water every day until its roots grow into the soil. University guidance agrees on the basics:

Cool-season grassWarm-season grass
Right after layingSoak it: about 1 in of water, enough to wet the soil under the sod.Water deep enough to wet about 4 in of soil.
Until it rootsWater once or twice a day so it stays moist, not soggy. Soil kept soaked under the sod roots more slowly. Tug a corner at 10 to 14 days: if it holds, it's rooting.Water daily for the first week, then lightly and often for 2 to 3 weeks, until it has rooted.
First mowOnce it has rooted, at about 3 to 4 in.Wait 3 to 4 weeks, until it's firmly rooted.
FeedingFeed about a month after laying, once it has rooted, then again 30 to 60 days later. Never before the roots take hold.

Never cut off more than a third of the blade at once. Hold off on weed preventer until the sod has rooted and the seams have closed; check the label for its wait.

What this doesn't cover

  • Compost and soil preparation.
  • Delivery fees and pallet deposits.
  • Plugs and sprigs.

Sources

Numbers last reviewed: October 9, 2026.